Murano

Murano, Mayfair.

It was a surprise early Valentine's dinner - the perfect way of celebrating for a couple who think the whole Valentine's thing is a sham and who for years have declared it 'Amateur Night' at any restaurant, preferring to cook a special dinner at home and open a spectacular bottle (or two) without the worry of a DWI. 
So, I have my suspicions before we leave the house - after all, this place has been on my must-go list since it opened in 2008 - but I still enjoy the frisson of the 'surprise' when we pull up outside.   
I've been a fan of Angela Hartnett's cooking since dining at The Grill at The Connaught when she was the resident Chef, and I've also eaten at The York and Albany on the edge of Regent's Park (like Murano, it is a co-production with Gordon Ramsay).  What I love is her simplicity - it takes a huge amount of skill to make food at this level look simple.
The restaurant is airy, light and elegant - very serene and welcoming.  Comfortable chairs, nice spacing between the tables, unfussy wall paintings and a touch of originality in the unique light fixtures - an homage to Murano's glass industry.  
Once seated at a nice large round table (too often 'two-top' tables are skimpy), we turn our attention to the menu - at £60 for 3 courses it's a bargain considering we're dining at a Michelin starred restaurant.  A glass of Ayala Brut helps focus the brain, and we quickly narrow the selections to two starters and a shared entree:  I will have the Sea Scallops with Apple and Cucumber Salsa, Pata Negra, Pumpkin Puree and Candied Walnuts, and he'll have the Braised Veal Anolini with a White Onion Puree and a Truffle Broth, followed by Cote de Boeuf for two.  The scallops are perfecty cooked, and the accompanying garnishes make each bite magical.  I find it interesting that scallops, more than any seafood, often provide a foil to strong flavours (think black pudding, chorizo etc.) but here the notes are subtle and light.  I manage to snag an anolini or two, but it's the broth that shines here - it slides over the tongue filling the mouth with haunting truffle - sublime. 
Moving from Texas to London has brought a few sacrifices one of which is beef.  We were spoiled with an easy availability of marbled slabs of steak which we've been unable to replicate here - when we've tried what looks like a comparable ribeye it is sadly lacking in flavour.  So we fall upon the Cote de Boeuf which has been skillfully sliced and plated tableside - maybe a tiny bit under cooked I think - and it doesn't disappoint.  Beautifully seasoned.  Simply accompanied by rustic potatoes boulangere and courgette 'chips' it hits the mark perfectly.  The wine list is swimming with high priced wines but we manage to find a value-priced 'super-Tuscan' - Poggio al Tesoro Sondaia 2005 - and it stands up to that hunk of beef admirably.
All that meat - do we have room for dessert?  You bet.  I plump for Carmelia Chocolate Mousse with Nougatine, Caramel Bonbon and Salted Almond Icecream - right in my wheelhouse.  The sweetness of the caramel playing off dark chocolate, the salt hitting an occasional high note - this was a melody of flavours and textures.  The Plum and Spiced Caramel Parfait with a Feuillatine Crunch and Roasted Plum delivered, but couldn't put up much of a fight. 
It strikes us, as we linger over a last bite of dessert, that this hasn't really been an 'Italian' meal as one might expect, but rather a celebration of great ingredients prepared with loving care.  And after all, isn't love what it's all about?
http://www.angelahartnett.com/
http://www.gordonramsey.com/