London Restaurant Festival 2011: Sat Bains

It's London Restaurant Festival time again, and a chance to road-test some places that might ordinarily be outside our budget.  

New on this year's menu is the chance to experience some outside-London chefs, and we jump at the news that Sat Bains is one of the first to be featured at Fortnum and Mason's Gallery Restaurant - Sat's eponymous Michelin-starred restaurant in Nottingham has been on our radar for some time, and despite having family in the area (and therefore a reason to visit) we haven't yet made the pilgrimage.  So, yes please, 2 for lunch. 

It's the first Monday in October but London is basking in an Indian summer and everyone seems to be blissed out by this second-chance summer warmth.  Secretaries and salesgirls soak up the rays in nearby St. James' Park as we waft in to the light-filled restaurant and are seated at a window table overlooking the bespoke shops of Jermyn Street.

Happiness

The staff here are more accustomed to serving quick business lunches, and the arrangement is of family-style seating although because of our later booking we luck out with a 6-top to ourselves.  A bit quirky - the wine list comes from F & M's own-label retail offerings and is priced at retail too - what is already a bargain is super-sized when we ask about their American Express deal which takes  an additional £10 off per bottle.  This includes a Rose Champagne made for F & M by Billecart-Salmon - how can we resist?  The listed half-bottle is a ghost, but the friendly maitre d' will pour from the 750ml and charge us accordingly (it later turns out that we get the tenner-off deal on that too).  I love great staff.

Our meal starts with pancetta-wrapped pork belly with pickled vegetables, 3 luscious little fingers of piggy heaven. Turns out these particular porkers live next to the Walkers Crisps factory and are fed the rejects (hopefully not smokey bacon flavour), which results in unique earthy notes.  They are set upon so quickly that by the time I'm reaching for the camera it's just a crime scene - nothing left but fingerprints.  We've saved some Bubbly to pair with this course and it cuts through the fattiness perfectly.

Salmon in Oyster Veloute

A palate-cleansing salmon with oyster and miso veloute follows - the oysters have gone, leaving the taste of the sea behind, a singing briny broth that lifts and cuts the richness of the (cured rather than cooked) salmon.  Like exploring a little rockpool, there are lots of treasures to be found in this dish - tiny clams, cucumber and some crunchy 'popped' wild rice among them.   

We've ordered a minor red Burgundy (Givry) to pair with the salmon and the next dish which is mutton with shallots.  Slow-cooked and meltingly tender, the mutton is paired with a shallot puree as well as a slow-roasted shallot.  The wine may have been slightly challenged by the salmon, but it's in its element here and its berry fruit and earthy structure makes a great partner to the meat.  

We've seen Chef working the room a bit while we've been dining, and are delighted when he sits down to join us.  Yes, Sat sat.  So now's our chance to ask about the food (this is
how I learn about the pigs and how to pop wild rice).  He is very unassuming and eager to talk about his restaurant as well as this 'pop-up' experience at Fortnum's and agrees with the suggestion that next time he might offer a wine-paired menu as an option. 

Dessert is a medley of late summer fruits, crushed meringue and a light granita - what is that herb?  Not strongly flavoured like mint or basil, but it is a herbal taste, maybe it's green tea?  Something to ask Chef about next time. 
It is simple and delicious. 

The new Michelin guide just awarded Sat his second star - so we feely doubly lucky to have had the chance to try his food without leaving London or our budget behind.  Though next time we're up in Robin Hood country I'm certain we'll go to the source.