No need to stay thirsty at Soif

Soif

London is a conundrum.  It is large - approximately 610 sq miles - and, like the Rorschach blot it resembles, is open to constant interpretation and flux.  For those of the 7.5 million souls that live here, we know it as a series of connected villages - a tired but accurate description - which helps to knock its vastness to a more human scale.  For the thousands that visit every year, it is defined by its historical palaces and monuments, shopping and theatres.  It is, as has been said, all things to all people.

In August 2011, it exploded with rioting and looting, now just a year later, people are marvelling at how friendly London is, welcoming the world to the 2012 Olympics. 

A year ago, we definitely would not have been sitting here at Soif, in the heart of Clapham, a few stones throws from so much violence and civil disturbance that the Met were forced to use military vehicles to try and disperse the gangs. 

Perhaps one of London's best qualities is how it reacts under adversity - remember the Blitz?  Theatres that never closed? - it never buckles, just dusts itself off and gets on with life.  The day after the riots in Clapham, hundreds of people showed up with brooms, buckets and dustpans ready to keep calm, clean up and carry on.

This is, for the most part, a comfortable suburb, with a vibrant cafe society at its heart - the streets of Lavendar Hill, Northcote Road and Battersea Rise are lined with bars and restaurants.  In summer months the pavement tables swell with the overflow, a buzzy, vibrant scene reminiscent of Paris' left bank.

Soif is an outpost of Terroirs, a food-driven wine bar smack in the heart of London, around the corner from Trafalgar Square.  Like its older sibling, it adheres to the natural, sustainable, artisanal, local ethos.  The wines served are classed as 'natural', or non-interventionist - my guess is that this moniker allows a little more wriggle room than Organic and Bio-dynamic.  The food is bistro moderne, and many dishes can be shared .  Indeed the two appetizers we ordered were large enough for two - we'll know better next time.

A glass of Provence Rose (naturally) kicks things off and goes nicely with both the brandade (salt cod) and the jambon persille  (ham) that we shared.  The brandade was moist and creamy, and the ham nice and chunky.

Next came a 500ml 'pot' of Cotes du Rhone to partner braised leg of lamb on coco beans, and roasted pork loin on braised fennel.  The lamb was supple, lean and tender.  The pork just a tad on the dry side, though the crackling was sublimely crunchy.  Anchovy sauce was served on the side - a little went a long way - in what seemed to be an homage to the great Italian vitello tonnato pairing of veal and tuna sauce.  The tribute didn't quite succeed. 

A clafoutis of greengages cooked to order arrived steaming hot.  Cooled with a dose of cream, it quickly disappeared. The batter was light and almost fluffy - not always the case with this dessert. These lovely summer fruit make a fleeting appearance so an opportunity to enjoy them should not be missed.

We'd arrived without a reservation ahead of the crowds at 7pm, and by the time we left even though the place was buzzing they were still taking walk-ins. 

The night is balmy and - thankfully - peaceful.  The only screams are coming from fans cheering on their Olympic athletes.

Soif
27 Battersea Rise
SW11 1HG