Tom's Kitchen, Chelsea
TA is widely acclaimed as one of London's top Chefs so we jumped when an opportunity arose to dine at the Kitchen during the March London Restaurant Festival. The Festival menu was a bargain £15 for two courses, though less of a bargain at £25 for 3 - that's a big jump for dessert - and it was limited to two choices of appetisers and entrees. It was a chilly day, so we both opted for the soup - Beans with duck confit sounded suitably heart-warming. Unusually the soup was a puree and the confit had sunk to the bottom, not making an appearance until halfway through - it was tasty, but not quite as expected.
The entree choices were fish and chips or cottage pie, so one of each please. The pie came in its own Staub pot, and a crisp cheesy topping. Comfort food given the haute cuisine treatment. The fish - pollock, the darling of the sustainable lobby - was cooked well, but the batter was a huge disappointment. Although appearing crisp it was heavy and soggy to the point of being inedible. The chips were so-so - certainly not as good as others tasted recently. No comment was made by staff when gathering the plate full of batter, a mistake as they could have avoided other such disasters coming out of the kitchen. We chose not to take the upcharge on dessert.
We were expecting more from Tom's Kitchen and I got the distinct feeling that it was cruising on its association with its more famous sibling down the road. A treat turned into nothing more than an average meal.
http://www.tomskitchen.co.uk/
Wednesday, 24 March 2010
Murano
Murano, Mayfair.
It was a surprise early Valentine's dinner - the perfect way of celebrating for a couple who think the whole Valentine's thing is a sham and who for years have declared it 'Amateur Night' at any restaurant, preferring to cook a special dinner at home and open a spectacular bottle (or two) without the worry of a DWI.
So, I have my suspicions before we leave the house - after all, this place has been on my must-go list since it opened in 2008 - but I still enjoy the frisson of the 'surprise' when we pull up outside.
I've been a fan of Angela Hartnett's cooking since dining at The Grill at The Connaught when she was the resident Chef, and I've also eaten at The York and Albany on the edge of Regent's Park (like Murano, it is a co-production with Gordon Ramsay). What I love is her simplicity - it takes a huge amount of skill to make food at this level look simple.
The restaurant is airy, light and elegant - very serene and welcoming. Comfortable chairs, nice spacing between the tables, unfussy wall paintings and a touch of originality in the unique light fixtures - an homage to Murano's glass industry.
Once seated at a nice large round table (too often 'two-top' tables are skimpy), we turn our attention to the menu - at £60 for 3 courses it's a bargain considering we're dining at a Michelin starred restaurant. A glass of Ayala Brut helps focus the brain, and we quickly narrow the selections to two starters and a shared entree: I will have the Sea Scallops with Apple and Cucumber Salsa, Pata Negra, Pumpkin Puree and Candied Walnuts, and he'll have the Braised Veal Anolini with a White Onion Puree and a Truffle Broth, followed by Cote de Boeuf for two. The scallops are perfecty cooked, and the accompanying garnishes make each bite magical. I find it interesting that scallops, more than any seafood, often provide a foil to strong flavours (think black pudding, chorizo etc.) but here the notes are subtle and light. I manage to snag an anolini or two, but it's the broth that shines here - it slides over the tongue filling the mouth with haunting truffle - sublime.
Moving from Texas to London has brought a few sacrifices one of which is beef. We were spoiled with an easy availability of marbled slabs of steak which we've been unable to replicate here - when we've tried what looks like a comparable ribeye it is sadly lacking in flavour. So we fall upon the Cote de Boeuf which has been skillfully sliced and plated tableside - maybe a tiny bit under cooked I think - and it doesn't disappoint. Beautifully seasoned. Simply accompanied by rustic potatoes boulangere and courgette 'chips' it hits the mark perfectly. The wine list is swimming with high priced wines but we manage to find a value-priced 'super-Tuscan' - Poggio al Tesoro Sondaia 2005 - and it stands up to that hunk of beef admirably.
All that meat - do we have room for dessert? You bet. I plump for Carmelia Chocolate Mousse with Nougatine, Caramel Bonbon and Salted Almond Icecream - right in my wheelhouse. The sweetness of the caramel playing off dark chocolate, the salt hitting an occasional high note - this was a melody of flavours and textures. The Plum and Spiced Caramel Parfait with a Feuillatine Crunch and Roasted Plum delivered, but couldn't put up much of a fight.
It strikes us, as we linger over a last bite of dessert, that this hasn't really been an 'Italian' meal as one might expect, but rather a celebration of great ingredients prepared with loving care. And after all, isn't love what it's all about?
http://www.angelahartnett.com/
http://www.gordonramsey.com/
It was a surprise early Valentine's dinner - the perfect way of celebrating for a couple who think the whole Valentine's thing is a sham and who for years have declared it 'Amateur Night' at any restaurant, preferring to cook a special dinner at home and open a spectacular bottle (or two) without the worry of a DWI.
So, I have my suspicions before we leave the house - after all, this place has been on my must-go list since it opened in 2008 - but I still enjoy the frisson of the 'surprise' when we pull up outside.
I've been a fan of Angela Hartnett's cooking since dining at The Grill at The Connaught when she was the resident Chef, and I've also eaten at The York and Albany on the edge of Regent's Park (like Murano, it is a co-production with Gordon Ramsay). What I love is her simplicity - it takes a huge amount of skill to make food at this level look simple.
The restaurant is airy, light and elegant - very serene and welcoming. Comfortable chairs, nice spacing between the tables, unfussy wall paintings and a touch of originality in the unique light fixtures - an homage to Murano's glass industry.
Once seated at a nice large round table (too often 'two-top' tables are skimpy), we turn our attention to the menu - at £60 for 3 courses it's a bargain considering we're dining at a Michelin starred restaurant. A glass of Ayala Brut helps focus the brain, and we quickly narrow the selections to two starters and a shared entree: I will have the Sea Scallops with Apple and Cucumber Salsa, Pata Negra, Pumpkin Puree and Candied Walnuts, and he'll have the Braised Veal Anolini with a White Onion Puree and a Truffle Broth, followed by Cote de Boeuf for two. The scallops are perfecty cooked, and the accompanying garnishes make each bite magical. I find it interesting that scallops, more than any seafood, often provide a foil to strong flavours (think black pudding, chorizo etc.) but here the notes are subtle and light. I manage to snag an anolini or two, but it's the broth that shines here - it slides over the tongue filling the mouth with haunting truffle - sublime.
Moving from Texas to London has brought a few sacrifices one of which is beef. We were spoiled with an easy availability of marbled slabs of steak which we've been unable to replicate here - when we've tried what looks like a comparable ribeye it is sadly lacking in flavour. So we fall upon the Cote de Boeuf which has been skillfully sliced and plated tableside - maybe a tiny bit under cooked I think - and it doesn't disappoint. Beautifully seasoned. Simply accompanied by rustic potatoes boulangere and courgette 'chips' it hits the mark perfectly. The wine list is swimming with high priced wines but we manage to find a value-priced 'super-Tuscan' - Poggio al Tesoro Sondaia 2005 - and it stands up to that hunk of beef admirably.
All that meat - do we have room for dessert? You bet. I plump for Carmelia Chocolate Mousse with Nougatine, Caramel Bonbon and Salted Almond Icecream - right in my wheelhouse. The sweetness of the caramel playing off dark chocolate, the salt hitting an occasional high note - this was a melody of flavours and textures. The Plum and Spiced Caramel Parfait with a Feuillatine Crunch and Roasted Plum delivered, but couldn't put up much of a fight.
It strikes us, as we linger over a last bite of dessert, that this hasn't really been an 'Italian' meal as one might expect, but rather a celebration of great ingredients prepared with loving care. And after all, isn't love what it's all about?
http://www.angelahartnett.com/
http://www.gordonramsey.com/
The Square Pops Up In Putney
Restaurateur Rebecca Mascarenhas has done a wonderful thing for the victims of the earthquake in Haiti. For the month of March she is hosting pop-up restaurants in the Putney space that most recently housed her restaurant The Phoenix Bar and Grill and is donating the proceeds to Action Against Hunger for the Haiti campaign. She has gathered top Chefs from Britain's finest restaurants - among them Rick Stein, Atul Kochhar, Rowley Leigh and, on the night we were there, Phillip Howard - and put them to work for a cause. Many of the pop-up nights are already a sell-out, and we were lucky to snag a table for The Square, a Michelin 2 Star restaurant in Mayfair.
An amuse of a mini cornet of foie gras mousse and squid-ink gougeres stuffed with goat cheese was a good place to start while we considered the short but sweet menu choices. Bread from Ottolenghi was a treat too, and, having chosen appetizers and entrees, we started in on bottle of St. Veran. A colourful salad of beetroot and goat curd, delicately dressed with an Eiswein vinaigrette and set off by a scoop of silky Balsamic cream was a delight, elevating the vegetable from humble to haute. An impossibly tiny brunoise of vegetables garnished the beets - there must be elves in the kitchen with little knives creating such a minituarised sprinkle.
Next we chose both appetizers so we could share - a Ravioli of Scallops and Langoustine Claws with a Champagne foam and Ballotines of Guinea Fowl with Foie Gras and a Rhubarb and Grape Chutney. No wonder we couldn't choose between them - both were delicious. The former was wrapped in such a subtle sauce that it allowed the seafood to sing, while the chutney cut the richness of the foie gras torchon perfectly. The only way to stay even-handed on the sharing was knowing that the less you gave, the less you received - a policy of mutually assured destruction!
Despite years of living in Texas, a hunter's paradise, neither of us have a liking for Venison, so we both went for Loin of Monkfish with Winter Vegetables, Chanterelles and Truffle. For sure a few Morels snuck into the mushroom and vegetable medley and the whole dish was a skillful pairing - few fish other than 'Poor Man's Lobster' could stand up to such earthy flavours and a meaty jus.
A rich cheesecake of Brillat Savarin with Passion Fruit and Lime and a dainty dish of sorbets (I know Plum was one of them, but fail to remember the others except they were all delectable) rounded up the meal.
Each dish had been beautifully presented and the service was impeccable if a touch hurried. A take-away package containing some fresh nougat was a sweet touch.
There's nothing square about The Square - Chef Howard's food is modern and exciting, underpinned by classic techniques and there's an evident deftness in the layering of flavours. We come away knowing we've had a bargain, and feeling good about helping some less fortunate souls at the same time.
http://www.squarerestaurant.org/
http://www.putneypopup.co.uk/
An amuse of a mini cornet of foie gras mousse and squid-ink gougeres stuffed with goat cheese was a good place to start while we considered the short but sweet menu choices. Bread from Ottolenghi was a treat too, and, having chosen appetizers and entrees, we started in on bottle of St. Veran. A colourful salad of beetroot and goat curd, delicately dressed with an Eiswein vinaigrette and set off by a scoop of silky Balsamic cream was a delight, elevating the vegetable from humble to haute. An impossibly tiny brunoise of vegetables garnished the beets - there must be elves in the kitchen with little knives creating such a minituarised sprinkle.
Next we chose both appetizers so we could share - a Ravioli of Scallops and Langoustine Claws with a Champagne foam and Ballotines of Guinea Fowl with Foie Gras and a Rhubarb and Grape Chutney. No wonder we couldn't choose between them - both were delicious. The former was wrapped in such a subtle sauce that it allowed the seafood to sing, while the chutney cut the richness of the foie gras torchon perfectly. The only way to stay even-handed on the sharing was knowing that the less you gave, the less you received - a policy of mutually assured destruction!
Despite years of living in Texas, a hunter's paradise, neither of us have a liking for Venison, so we both went for Loin of Monkfish with Winter Vegetables, Chanterelles and Truffle. For sure a few Morels snuck into the mushroom and vegetable medley and the whole dish was a skillful pairing - few fish other than 'Poor Man's Lobster' could stand up to such earthy flavours and a meaty jus.
A rich cheesecake of Brillat Savarin with Passion Fruit and Lime and a dainty dish of sorbets (I know Plum was one of them, but fail to remember the others except they were all delectable) rounded up the meal.
Each dish had been beautifully presented and the service was impeccable if a touch hurried. A take-away package containing some fresh nougat was a sweet touch.
There's nothing square about The Square - Chef Howard's food is modern and exciting, underpinned by classic techniques and there's an evident deftness in the layering of flavours. We come away knowing we've had a bargain, and feeling good about helping some less fortunate souls at the same time.
http://www.squarerestaurant.org/
http://www.putneypopup.co.uk/
Saturday, 30 January 2010
Comptoir Gascon
Comptoir Gascon, Smithfield: London's Wholesale Meat Market and home to some of the City's best meat restaurants (think St. John and it's nose-to-tail ethos). But on a rainy Saturday we are at Comptoir Gascon for Brunch, and it's all about eggs. Oh, and the best croissants this side of the English Channel. Trust me, there are none better, not even Paul* comes close to these buttery, flaky pastries and one mouthful transports you straight to the heart of France. Even the ones we grab for Sunday's breakfast at home lose nothing overnight and are just as delicious - every last flaky crumb swept from the plate.
Back to the eggs though. Omelettes and scrambled eggs are made with 5 or 6 eggs per person - are these extra small eggs we ask? Quails eggs maybe? No, is the answer, though I suspect they are Bantam eggs which are naturally small. Full 'English' comes with home-baked beans which are a touch undercooked - the only misstep - and Toulouse sausages with a nice garlicky hit. A fifth dish is ordered for the table - more Toulouse sausage with pureed potatoes, their orange-yellow colour coming from sweet mustard. A flavoursome combo that's perfectly hearty for this cold damp morning.
Back to the eggs - mine, scrambled with Chanterelles, are served in a deep bowl and are oozing with butter. Sublime scrambled eggs that are so rich it's impossible to finish without enlisting help. The forks come diving in within seconds and the bowl is cleaned.
Did I mention the chips? The Gascon folks are renowned for their chips (so renowned that they regularly win the 'Best Chips in London' award) which are cooked in duck fat, so we simply have to have some. They do not disappoint - the perfect relationship between crispy exterior and soft interior - and the plate is soon emptied.
With tea and coffee, the bill for four is a bargain £50.
We've been in a corner of Gascony for the last hour and a half, so it's almost a shock when we emerge back into Smithfield, but the City of London is blissfully quiet on the weekend, and the rain has dampened the spirits of all but the hardiest tourists so with eyes half closed we can believe for a while that we're still in France.
*Paul is an outpost of a French bakery/patisserie chain with many branches throughout London.
http://www.clubgascon.com/
Back to the eggs though. Omelettes and scrambled eggs are made with 5 or 6 eggs per person - are these extra small eggs we ask? Quails eggs maybe? No, is the answer, though I suspect they are Bantam eggs which are naturally small. Full 'English' comes with home-baked beans which are a touch undercooked - the only misstep - and Toulouse sausages with a nice garlicky hit. A fifth dish is ordered for the table - more Toulouse sausage with pureed potatoes, their orange-yellow colour coming from sweet mustard. A flavoursome combo that's perfectly hearty for this cold damp morning.
Back to the eggs - mine, scrambled with Chanterelles, are served in a deep bowl and are oozing with butter. Sublime scrambled eggs that are so rich it's impossible to finish without enlisting help. The forks come diving in within seconds and the bowl is cleaned.
Did I mention the chips? The Gascon folks are renowned for their chips (so renowned that they regularly win the 'Best Chips in London' award) which are cooked in duck fat, so we simply have to have some. They do not disappoint - the perfect relationship between crispy exterior and soft interior - and the plate is soon emptied.
With tea and coffee, the bill for four is a bargain £50.
We've been in a corner of Gascony for the last hour and a half, so it's almost a shock when we emerge back into Smithfield, but the City of London is blissfully quiet on the weekend, and the rain has dampened the spirits of all but the hardiest tourists so with eyes half closed we can believe for a while that we're still in France.
*Paul is an outpost of a French bakery/patisserie chain with many branches throughout London.
http://www.clubgascon.com/
Monday, 14 December 2009
The Hinds Head, Bray
Nestled prettily on the banks of the Thames, the village of Bray is just like any small English hamlet with one exception. Or maybe that should be two: The Fat Duck and The Waterside Inn. There are only 3 restaurants in the entire United Kingdom, deemed worthy of 3 Michelin stars (Gordon Ramsey is the other one), and two of them are within half a mile of each other in an otherwise anonymous spot just down the road from Windsor - go figure. It really is a bit of a mystery and though there's clearly no shortage of money in this part of the world, it takes more than a village to support two restaurants at this end of the food chain. The few times I've been there - and, yes, I have been fortunate to eat at both restaurants - I also find myself wondering where all the staff live. It's not exactly a low-rent area after all. Well, this blog is not about either The Fat Duck, or The Waterside Inn, but a much more affordable option - The Hinds Head.
Part of the Heston Blumenthal stable, The Hinds Head was doing land-office business on a chilly Friday lunchtime. We arrive in the middle of a power cut - bad timing - and are advised that though the electrician is now on the premises, there are no guaranties that the power will be up and running before the end of lunch service. So, cold plates only in the meantime. We are not deterred, and take our seats in the main dining room (there is a more casual bar area with tables and a separate bar menu) - after all, the wine will still be chilled, right? And there are plenty of cold dishes on the appetizer menu to choose from - though unfortunately we won't be able to try the chestnut soup with powdered duck which intrigues. We order the wine - a nice mineral, crisp Albarino - and settle in. Within a few minutes, we are approached and offered a suddenly-available 4-top at The Fat Duck. Wow. With not much hesitation, we turn it down. Now, in our defence: we had dinner there a little more than 6 weeks earlier, our dining companions had reservations for the Waterside Inn that evening and none of us were in a mood to spend £130 each for lunch (without wine). We ask, in view of the electrical problems, whether we could order off their menu instead, to be told with a smile that "The Fat Duck doesn't do take-out". Nice.
The menu at The Hinds Head is a playful mix of traditional English fare, and some more inventive dishes. In fact, at times it's downright Harry Potter-ish, with it's Warwickshire Wizzers and Quaking Puddings - more on that soon. On to the apps: Crab and Prawn Cocktail is a little humdrum, but the prawns are plentiful and the sauce not too sweet, while the Duck and Guinea Fowl Terrine with Spiced Apples is declared as 'wonderful' (so wonderful that no-one else gets a taste!). Both the house-smoked Salmon and the Potted Shrimps do not disappoint either. About halfway through these dishes, the lights come on - hooray! We would have hated to miss the triple cooked chips! Or those Warwickshire wizzers which turn out to be dates filled with mango sauce and wrapped in crisp pancetta - yum! A bottle of Vasse Felix Margaret River Cabernet/Merlot is ordered to celebrate - cheers to the electrician!
Showing admirable restraint, one of our party orders the Salad of Goats Cheese with Mulled Fig, Hazelnut, Green Beans and Shallots - she's got a 3* meal to tackle just hours away after all - while the rest of us pile in to a perfectly cooked steak with bone marrow sauce (oh, so rich), a large bowl of Cornish mussels which looked plump and juicy, and an oxtail and kidney pudding respectively. The pudding was below par - the pastry heavy and uninspiring as well as a distinct lack of kidneys - but the other dishes were delicious, And those chips were worth every fat-busting calorie with a perfectly crisp crust and meltingly soft potato inside.
Everyone plumps for dessert - especially when promised that the Quaking Puddings are as light as air. So, three of those plus one order of Christmas Pudding tart with Brandy Ice Cream (someone's feeling decidedly Christmassy - must have been those wizzers). The puddings really do quake - shaking like jellies on their wooden boards - as well as being light. A steamed concoction of milk, eggs and spices, they are like cooked eggnog and just as scrumptious. The tart dissappears so fast I can only assume it too was a hit.
The Hinds Head is declared a success, with a few minor reservations. If your food budget doesn't run to The Fat Duck, this is a great way of getting a flavour of its more famous sibling. The inn itself, a fifteenth century building with low beamed ceilings and crooked angles everywhere, has a quintessential English pub atmosphere. Blumenthal's humorous touches start above the front door with a sign that reads 'Duck or Grouse' and that feeling of bonhomie lingers throughout the meal. The famous Chef clearly has his stamp here, while giving Chef Clive Dixon plenty of ownership of his kitchen. With a menu that rarely strays outside the £20 comfort zone, this 'pub' proves it is no mere orphan sister.
thehindsheadhotel.com
Part of the Heston Blumenthal stable, The Hinds Head was doing land-office business on a chilly Friday lunchtime. We arrive in the middle of a power cut - bad timing - and are advised that though the electrician is now on the premises, there are no guaranties that the power will be up and running before the end of lunch service. So, cold plates only in the meantime. We are not deterred, and take our seats in the main dining room (there is a more casual bar area with tables and a separate bar menu) - after all, the wine will still be chilled, right? And there are plenty of cold dishes on the appetizer menu to choose from - though unfortunately we won't be able to try the chestnut soup with powdered duck which intrigues. We order the wine - a nice mineral, crisp Albarino - and settle in. Within a few minutes, we are approached and offered a suddenly-available 4-top at The Fat Duck. Wow. With not much hesitation, we turn it down. Now, in our defence: we had dinner there a little more than 6 weeks earlier, our dining companions had reservations for the Waterside Inn that evening and none of us were in a mood to spend £130 each for lunch (without wine). We ask, in view of the electrical problems, whether we could order off their menu instead, to be told with a smile that "The Fat Duck doesn't do take-out". Nice.
The menu at The Hinds Head is a playful mix of traditional English fare, and some more inventive dishes. In fact, at times it's downright Harry Potter-ish, with it's Warwickshire Wizzers and Quaking Puddings - more on that soon. On to the apps: Crab and Prawn Cocktail is a little humdrum, but the prawns are plentiful and the sauce not too sweet, while the Duck and Guinea Fowl Terrine with Spiced Apples is declared as 'wonderful' (so wonderful that no-one else gets a taste!). Both the house-smoked Salmon and the Potted Shrimps do not disappoint either. About halfway through these dishes, the lights come on - hooray! We would have hated to miss the triple cooked chips! Or those Warwickshire wizzers which turn out to be dates filled with mango sauce and wrapped in crisp pancetta - yum! A bottle of Vasse Felix Margaret River Cabernet/Merlot is ordered to celebrate - cheers to the electrician!
Showing admirable restraint, one of our party orders the Salad of Goats Cheese with Mulled Fig, Hazelnut, Green Beans and Shallots - she's got a 3* meal to tackle just hours away after all - while the rest of us pile in to a perfectly cooked steak with bone marrow sauce (oh, so rich), a large bowl of Cornish mussels which looked plump and juicy, and an oxtail and kidney pudding respectively. The pudding was below par - the pastry heavy and uninspiring as well as a distinct lack of kidneys - but the other dishes were delicious, And those chips were worth every fat-busting calorie with a perfectly crisp crust and meltingly soft potato inside.
Everyone plumps for dessert - especially when promised that the Quaking Puddings are as light as air. So, three of those plus one order of Christmas Pudding tart with Brandy Ice Cream (someone's feeling decidedly Christmassy - must have been those wizzers). The puddings really do quake - shaking like jellies on their wooden boards - as well as being light. A steamed concoction of milk, eggs and spices, they are like cooked eggnog and just as scrumptious. The tart dissappears so fast I can only assume it too was a hit.
The Hinds Head is declared a success, with a few minor reservations. If your food budget doesn't run to The Fat Duck, this is a great way of getting a flavour of its more famous sibling. The inn itself, a fifteenth century building with low beamed ceilings and crooked angles everywhere, has a quintessential English pub atmosphere. Blumenthal's humorous touches start above the front door with a sign that reads 'Duck or Grouse' and that feeling of bonhomie lingers throughout the meal. The famous Chef clearly has his stamp here, while giving Chef Clive Dixon plenty of ownership of his kitchen. With a menu that rarely strays outside the £20 comfort zone, this 'pub' proves it is no mere orphan sister.
thehindsheadhotel.com
Thursday, 3 December 2009
Le Cercle
Last Saturday, Peter Jones was heaving with early Christmas shoppers, and Sloane Square was criss-crossed by crowds of purpose-driven Londoners. It was time for a late-ish lunch, around 2pm. The Botanist, catty-corner from The Royal Court Theatre, was wall-to-wall with Sloanies, paying too much for weekend brunch. The new Duke of York shopping area, anchored by the Saatchi Gallery, now offers plenty of places to refuel, but we were headed for nearby Wilbraham Place and Le Cercle. A tony outpost of the Club Gascon group, whose restaurants in Smithfield are a mecca for lovers of foie gras, Le Cercle offers one of the best lunch deals around. At just £15 for 3 courses, or £19.50 for 4. Now, admittedly, the plates at Le Cercle are not groaning with food - the concept is more along the lines of small plates - but after 3 or 4 courses, you certainly come away satisfied. You enter the restaurant at street level and descend to the double-height dining room - an almost perfect space, classically speaking - with floor-to-ceiling sheers that create a feeling of intimacy. We were seated at a cozy banquette raised ever so slightly above the main floor, with a full view of the dining room to our right and, on our left the wine cellar. Though strongly tempted by the a la carte dishes we stuck to our guns and chose exclusively from the set menu: The most ethereal Pumpkin soup with a scoop of anise-flavoured cream was so light it was like eating clouds, while baby cheese-filled ravioli floated in a foamy shellfish cream that had flavours lingering long after the last forkful. Then a house-cured salmon with a creamy carrot puree (where the only misstep was the addition of too much whole grain mustard) was overshadowed by the confit of haddock with cauliflower puree and samphire. The haddock was beautifully prepared, and slid submissively off the fork onto the tongue while the puree was silken and subtle. Now completely at the mercy of the chef, we then enjoyed a ballotine of roast chicken, wrapped in pancetta and stuffed with forcemeat, napped with a foamy foie gras sauce and a scattering of impossibly tiny brunoise of vegetables. Yes, I know that's the second time I have said foamy, and it's true the chef likes his foams, but what saves it from pretentiousness is the purity of flavours. A slightly disappointing choucroute - too much sauerkraut and not enough variety of meat - can be forgiven. I couldn't resist the 4th course and plumped for the chocolate fondant with mint ice-cream. This was no ordinary mint ice-cream, this was pure, intense, real, fresh peppermint held hostage in a custard base, and was the perfect foil to the oozy, dense chocolate. Can you believe that the set price includes tea or coffee - even espresso, normally a restaurant's favorite profit area? Fora little more than £50 (a glass of wine pushed us over the edge) we had eaten an incredible meal, and spent the same as we have done in the past for mediocrity. Le Cercle is a winner - especially as the set menu is available on a Saturday.
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